Hair porosity
Hair Porosity Test
Eight quick questions about how your hair behaves with water and product. You will find out whether your porosity is low, medium or high, why, and exactly what that means for the products and routine that will work for you.
The 3 hair porosity types
Scoring needs JavaScript. With it switched off you can still read all three porosity types below and match yourself by eye.
Your hair porosity
Low Porosity
Tightly closed cuticle
Your cuticle scales lie flat and overlap tightly. Water and product struggle to get in, but once moisture is inside, your hair holds onto it well.
This is why products seem to sit on top, why wash day takes a while to get your hair properly wet, and why buildup is your most common problem. Low porosity hair is usually healthy hair. It does not need heavier products, it needs lighter ones, a little warmth to lift the cuticle, and regular clarifying so there is a clean surface for moisture to get through.
What gave it away
Look for
- Water-based leave-ins and light milks
- Humectants like glycerin and aloe
- Light oils: argan, grapeseed, jojoba
- A clarifying shampoo every few weeks
Go easy on
- Heavy butters and thick creams as a first layer
- Frequent protein treatments
- Layering several products on top of each other
How to look after it
- Deep condition with heat. A warm towel, heat cap or hooded dryer for 15 to 20 minutes lifts the cuticle enough to let it in.
- Apply products to damp, not dripping, hair, in small amounts. If it is still sitting on the surface after a minute, you have used too much.
- Wash and rinse with warm water rather than cold.
- Clarify every two to four weeks to clear the buildup that a closed cuticle collects.
Your hair porosity
Medium Porosity
Balanced cuticle
Your cuticle is slightly raised, enough to let moisture in easily and still tight enough to keep it there. This is often called normal porosity, and it is the easiest to work with.
Your hair takes colour, holds a style and responds to most products the way the label says it will. The job here is protecting what you have. Heat, colour and rough handling all push hair towards high porosity over time, so a light routine and a little prevention go further than any treatment.
What gave it away
Look for
- Balanced moisturising conditioners
- Medium-weight creams and leave-ins
- A light protein treatment once a month
- Heat protectant whenever you use tools
Go easy on
- Overdoing protein, which can make hair stiff
- High heat without protection
- Harsh sulphate shampoos every wash
How to look after it
- Deep condition every week or two, alternating moisture and the occasional protein mask.
- Choose products by your curl pattern and density, not your porosity. You have the freedom to.
- Keep heat tools on a medium setting and always use a protectant.
- Trim the ends regularly. They are the oldest hair and the first to turn high porosity.
Your hair porosity
High Porosity
Open, raised cuticle
Your cuticle is lifted or has gaps in it. Water rushes in, which is why your hair wets and dries so fast, and it escapes just as quickly, which is why it feels dry again so soon.
High porosity is sometimes genetic, but it is usually the result of bleach, relaxers, heat or sun lifting the cuticle. The fix is a two-part routine: get moisture in, then seal it there with something heavier, and use protein to temporarily fill the gaps in the strand. Expect it to frizz in humidity until the damaged lengths grow out.
What gave it away
Look for
- Protein treatments: keratin, amino acids, rice water
- Rich creams, butters (shea, mango) and sealing oils
- Leave-in conditioner on every wash
- Anti-humectants in humid weather
Go easy on
- More bleach, relaxer or high heat
- Harsh sulphate shampoos
- Glycerin-heavy products in high humidity
How to look after it
- Layer with the LOC method: liquid or leave-in, then oil, then cream. Seal while hair is still damp.
- Do a protein treatment every two to four weeks, followed by a moisturising deep conditioner.
- Finish with a cool rinse to help the cuticle lie flatter.
- Sleep on satin or silk and cut back on heat. Every pass of a hot tool lifts the cuticle further.
Your answers pointed both ways
Some signs pointed to low porosity and others to high. That usually means mixed porosity: healthy, closed roots and older, more weathered ends. Try the float and slide tests on a strand from the root and one from the ends, and treat the two sections separately if they differ.
What Is Hair Porosity?
A hair porosity test measures how easily water gets into a strand and how long it stays. It all hinges on the cuticle, the thin outer layer of each hair. Flat and tight means low porosity. Lifted or chipped means high. The hair porosity guide covers each level.
Curly and coily hair is more likely to be porous, per a review by cosmetic scientist Dr. Amber Evans for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC). Even 4C hair can test low, though. The hair types chart only hints at porosity, and the hair type quiz reads both.
How to Test Hair Porosity at Home
A hair porosity test at home comes down to three checks, and all three are in the quiz above. The other five questions you can answer from memory. Each check works best right after a wash, before any leave-in goes on.
|
Test |
How to do it |
What it shows |
What throws it off |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Float test |
Shed hairs in room-temperature water, 3 to 4 minutes |
Floats: low. Middle: medium. Sinks: high |
Oil, air bubbles |
|
Spray bottle test |
Mist a clean, dry section |
Beads up: low. Soaks in after a moment: medium. Vanishes: high |
Leftover product |
|
Slip ‘n’ slide test |
Run two fingers up one strand, tip to root |
Smooth: low. Slightly textured: medium. Rough: high |
Conditioner residue |
Shed hairs beat a snipped tip for the float test. You can spot one by the tiny white bulb at the root, as the hair shedding vs breakage guide shows. Water moves fast. Hair with normal porosity takes up about 75% of the water it can hold within four minutes, per the NYSCC review.
How Accurate Is the Float Test?
The float test is the best-known hair porosity test, and the easiest one to get wrong. Hair is heavy enough to sink on its own. Surface tension holds it up, like a needle resting on water. Chemist Dr. Michelle Wong of Lab Muffin Beauty Science puts it bluntly: “These tests actually check for damage to the surface of hair.”
Your wash day says more than any glass of water. Salons have no better tool. How to choose a hair colorist covers asking for a strand test first.
Hair Porosity Test FAQs
Low porosity hair draws the most questions after a hair porosity test, mostly about moisture and buildup.
What are the signs of low porosity hair?
Water beads on it in the shower, and it takes ages to get fully wet. Drying takes ages too. Products sit on top and leave it coated or limp. Color often takes longer. Senior stylist Nicole Henry of Warren Tricomi told Forbes this hair “usually takes more time to soak.”
Is low porosity hair dry or oily?
Both, often on the same day. The lengths feel dry because water struggles to get in. Scalp oil and product sit on the surface instead, and roots can look greasy by day two. That oil comes from your scalp, though. Porosity doesn’t cause it.
How do you hydrate low porosity hair?
Warmth and water first, product second. Heat opens the cuticle, per the NYSCC review. So deep conditioning under a warm towel or steamer works. Leave-ins go on while hair is still damp. A few drops of a light oil, argan or jojoba, go on last.
What should you not put on low porosity hair?
Heavy butters and lots of protein are the usual troublemakers. Both tend to sit on the strand and build up. Henry suggests “minimal added proteins in the shampoo and conditioner” for this hair. Fine strands feel the weight first. Not sure yours is fine hair? Check before buying anything rich.
Should you shower every day if you have low porosity hair?
Daily showers are fine. Shampoo is the part that depends on your scalp. The American Academy of Dermatology says straight hair with an oily scalp may need it every day, while curly or textured hair needs it at least every two to three weeks. The best natural shampoo list has gentle picks.
Is frizzy hair high or low porosity?
Usually high. Not always. Humid air sneaks in under a raised cuticle, and not evenly. The hair swells and frizzes. Low porosity hair can still frizz from towel rubbing or from brushing curls once they’re dry. So frizz is a hint. It won’t settle the question alone.
Is it better to have high or low porosity hair?
Neither wins. Low porosity hair holds moisture well once it’s in, but it’s slow to take anything. High porosity hair takes color and conditioner fast, then loses both. Medium is easiest. Some salon guides call it the most common, though no large study has counted. High porosity hair has its own guide.
Can you change your hair porosity?
Your hair porosity test result can change. Bleach and relaxers push it higher. So do years of hot tools, and sun damaged hair shows the same wear. Long hair often ends up with mixed porosity, higher at the ends than the roots. New growth comes in at your natural porosity. Fillers like hair botox coat the strand, then wash out.